Heading North to Alaska.

This is about a remote area in west central British Columbia, Canada called the West Chilcotin. Surrounded by numerous glacial mountain ranges, alpine lakes teeming with wild Rainbow Trout, and full of wildlife. Living here goes from no running water or electricity to spacious log homes with all the conveniences and without the smog!
If you would like to see pictures of wildlife, mountains, lakes, exciting snowmobiling, events and more, and read stories like 'Lake Monsters' - just go into Archives on the lower left side of this page.
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6/19/2006 9:57 PM

Making Like A Tourist

Something that neither of us are really accustomed to because neither of us have ever taken much in the way of long vacations in our lifetime. Since we vowed to do things differently this time it was quite neat to do a little discovery tour today.
We explored the S.S. Klondike II, a steam paddlewheel ship named for, and mostly built from, what was left of her sister ship after she sank. Klondike II plied the mighty Yukon River between Whitehorse and Dawson City for several years until she was decommissioned in the mid-fifties.
For six dollars apiece, I would have liked a little more detailed tour, but we still learned some fascinating facts such as that it took 40 cords of wood to drive the ship 36 hours down river to Dawson City and an impressive 120 cords for the four to six day trip back. The fire man loaded one huge yule log into the firebox every thirty seconds for four hours straight. Talk about backbreaking work!
We took a walkabout in downtown Whitehorse and both agreed that we very much liked the little city. We went on to tour the Berengia Museum and the Transportation Museum. The former was utterly fascinating and we spent so much time there that they had to chase us out of the latter at supper time.
Do you remember how we were all taught in school that North America was inhabited by people and mammals that crossed the land bridge at the Bering Straight? I guess I always got the impression that we were literally talking narrow land bridge. Not so. According to the Interpretive Center, Eastern Asia, Alaska and more than half of the Yukon was not under glaciers during the last ice age and that when oceans dropped 489 feet as the huge ice fields froze, a huge grassy savanna was exposed between Asia and North America. World maps showed wide swaths of shoreline surrounding every continent that had previously been a part of the Continental Shelf, now exposed to air and the pollen that would colonize that rich new soil. Of course as temperatures warmed and the huge ice caps melted, those continents above water shrank yet again. Kind of makes you believe in the lost city of Atlantis after all.
There were many other fascinating bits of information that I never knew that made this tour well worth while. There was a lot of emphasis on the archeological finds in the Yukon region, many dug up by placer miners. Complete skeletal remains of the Hairy Mammoth, skin and bones from a Steppe horse, the Short Faced Bear, said to stand several feet taller than a grizzly bear, and the Scimiter Cat that looked like a Saber Tooth Tiger to me. I got a great picture of skull comparisons between black, grizzly and the Short Faced Bear that I'm going to post in the Picture of the Day. Check out the size differences!
I could have stayed a little longer at this museum, but time was running short and we did want to get onto the Transportation Museum. There was a whole room dedicated to some great pictures and write ups about floatplanes and pilots that flew in the north, and a whole lot of crashes too! There was also a tremendous amount of information on other methods of transportation in the Yukon as well as live exhibits but we were a little rushed and just didn't get to see everything. The fellow at the door started moving us out just before 6:00 and it was time we went anyway, but I would definitely recommend this particular museum to anyone. We were lucky, because we had visited the Visitor Center in downtown Whitehorse earlier in the day and so we had already seen a lot of information about the Klondike and modes of transportation, but there were a lot of neat little exhibits in the Transportation Museum that I would like to have explored in more detail.
All I can say is that there sure were a lot of crazy people in this country during the goldrush years!
We were going to head for the border to Alaska tomorrow, but I realized that we would then bypass Kluane and I've heard too much about how beautiful the area is to rush it. Since we're coming back out of Alaska by way of Dawson City, this will be our only opportunity to see the area.
One word of note. We've stayed these last two days at the Hi Country RV Park, or as Andy calls it, Sardine Central. It's true that the RV's are parked in here pretty tightly but there are trees at each site, the spot is a pretty one and the services excellent. It was true luxury to take a shower in an immaculate washroom and it didn't cost anything! The last place that we were at in Watson Lake charged two loonies for five minutes of water. That's a little excessive I think, especially in view of what these places charge for staying overnight. In any case, our laundry is done, trailer topped off and we're ready to move on out.
There may not might not be any articles for a day or two because I don't know whether we'll get anywhere near an Internet hookup.

6/18/2006 8:04 PM

Happy Father's Day Everyone!

We didn't realize it was Father's Day until we landed at Whitehorse and wondered why the RV Parks were so full and even all the phone lines were busy.
We pulled out of Watson Lake this morning and stopped at the Sign Post Forest there with street and place signs, license plates, and name plates attached to hundreds of upright treated timbers. It started out when the Alaskan Highway was first being built in 1942 with some of the engineers and military men that helped to build the highway painted boards with place names such as New York and Tokyo with mileage and arrows pointing in the direction of each. They were nailed to a pillar made famous over the years from thousands of photographs taken by tourists. The Sign Forest has since grown to over 60,000 signs and license plates and I only regret that we didn't bring a sign from Nimpo and Anahim Lakes. Just shows you what lousy tourists we are!
I was really disappointed to see that the Northern Lights Center at Watson Lake was only open in the afternoon and evenings. That was our sole reason for overnighting there and had I realized the hours weren't going to work for a morning visit, we could have gone there Saturday evening. I was really, really looking forward to seeing their displays since northern lights are probably one of my favorite things in the whole world. I guess I'll do a better job of reading the fine print in the Milepost next time.
We didn't stop too much today because again we wanted to make up a little for the lost time this past week. We did go into see the falls on the Rancheria River with the short walk being well worth the view and the dogs appreciated the jaunt immensely.
We got to cross the longest span of bridge on the Alaskan Highway at 1,917 feet long over Nisutlin River Bay where it flows into the end of 86 mile long Teslin Lake. It, like many of the bridges on the highway, has metal plating for a deck and must be ruddy awful for motorcyclists to cross.
We shifted in and out of British Columbia and the Yukon seven times today following the Alaska Highway, which in turn seems to follow the rivers a lot.
The country began to change yet again as we neared Whitehorse with wide, green valleys sweeping up to high mountains on either side of the highway. When we neared Marsh Lake I remembered it immediately from a picture in the Milepost because of its spectacular aquamarine color similiar to Muncho Lake from the day before. Marsh Lake is obviously popular as a recreation area for Whitehorse residents since the lake shore is built up a little more than we have been accustomed to seeing anywhere in the last few days. In fact, one thing that really stood out for us is that we noticed there is little access into the back country wilderness of northern British Columbia and the Yukon. You don't see huge logging cut blocks high up on the sides of hills and logging roads taking off here and there. There aren't any roads and apparently no logging. The land looks as pristine as when it was born millions of years ago and other than the odd huge forest fire burn, there is little that looks out of place here.
Just before we hit Whitehorse, we got our first glimpse of the mighty Yukon River, and mighty she is! Beautiful too. She's the same odd color of Marsh and Muncho Lakes. That strange pale greeny, blue you most often see in glacier fed lakes that drop fine silt into the water. Whatever the cause, it's a gorgeous river and I look forward to seeing it for the next thousand miles or so.
We had already decided on the RV park we would stay at as per the Milepost, (which is definitely the bible for travel to Alaska) and since it was only about 4:00 in the afternoon, we were confident of getting a good spot. Not so.
We sat in a long line of RV's in front of the office of the campsite and fortunately, Andy had the foresight to walk to the office straight away while I moved the truck and trailer forward as need be. We got the last spot with any kind of hookups in the site while two RV's that had parked in front of us and several behind were going to be stuck with no hookups if they wished to stay. Most did because the alternative campgrounds on the way in to Whitehorse looked like barren gravel parking lots. I'd rather park in a pullout or a gravel pit somewhere rather than take that choice. As it was, the last site required that we unhook the truck from the trailer and park it sideways since the site was too short for the entire rig. I suspect that this is an old RV park that used to be more than adequate for the campers, tent trailers and RV trailers of days gone by. Now the monsters that you see parked in these sites overflow on both ends and the sides once they put out their 'pop outs'. I'm reasonably sure that some of those rigs are bigger than our house!
There are some fabulous walking trails at this RV campground back in the woods behind it that are great for taking the dogs for a walk. There are dark woods, steep hills and huge rocks bigger than most vehicles and some houses that were blasted down the hillside either in the last volcanic eruption millenia ago or moved by glaciers in the last ice age. A walking trail tracks through it all and several game trails take off here and there, all waiting to be explored. Particularly by the dogs.
We'll stay parked here for a day because we would both like to take a look around Whitehorse. I've never talked to anyone that has lived or visited here that didn't like the place so I look forward to poking around tomorrow. After that, we're headed to the Alaskan border. There are lots of roads we want to go down in this part of the country, such as to see Atlin in northern B.C. and perhaps Skagway, but we'll do that on our way back home in August.

6/17/2006 7:08 PM

Second Day Out

We're on our second full day out after our forced standstill for nearly a week. We left Tetsa Campground this morning after a great night sleep. The only disadvantage of this beautiful spot was the mosquitoes and boy were they something! We took the dogs for a walk last night along the river, but you didn't stay in any one place for long. We couldn't leave them outside because they were just covered in the blood sucking little buggers! The campground was heavily treed, damp and down in a valley where there was little breeze. Ideal breeding grounds for mosquitoes so anything that we needed to do on the rig outside, was done after we left and climbed to a viewspot a few miles away.
We arrived in Stone Mountain Provincial Park and it was easy to see why it was called that. Big bare grey mountains reared up with all the layers of rock twisted into weird swirls and folds. There we crossed the Summit Pass which at 4,250 feet is the highest point on the Alaska Highway. Kind of neat when you think that yesterday we crossed the lowest point on the Alaska Highway at the Muskwa River which is only 1000 feet above sea level. There you go, the highs and the lows in less than 24 hours and we're less than a third down the highway.
In the Stone Mountain region we saw a young caribou on the highway and shortly after some Stone sheep, the only area that has them in British Columbia. We only caught a glimpse of a couple going over the bank on the left, but a little tiny kid decided to turn back and stopped on the highway in front of us. We came to a stop while he popped up the cliff face to our right. It is absolutely unbelievable how sure footed they are, even the little guy. I just couldn't get over how fast he could move on solid, nearly vertical rock and wasn't very successful taking pictures, but I hope I got at least one.
We soon came into Muncho Lake Provincial Park which offers spectacular viewscapes. The lake itself is unbelievable! It's the odd green you would normally associate with glacial fed lakes and rivers, but is a little more turquoise in color, said to be caused by copper oxide leaching into the lake, and is clear as a bell, allowing you to see deep to the rocks lining the bottom.
Although we followed several big rivers, none was so wild as the Liard. It is a huge, wide mud roiling river that has overflowed its banks in many places to enter the trees on either side where the banks are low. We stood well above it at one viewpoint where the bank was sheer to the river well below. It was seething and boiling with spring runoff and huge, uprooted trees were carried in circles down its middle. You realized pretty quickly that if you fell in you would be done for. Shortly after, we crossed the only suspension bridge left on the Alaska Highway where it crossed the mighty Liard River at 476 miles north of Dawson Creek.
We by-passed Liard Hot Springs in favor of arriving in an early camp for a change and so continued on to Watson Lake, watching the incredible country slide by. We went through miles of country newly overgrown with young spruce and poplar where apparently the second largest fire in B.C. history had occurred in 1982. It encompassed 400,000 acres!!! That's huge! Soon after we passed the boundary of that fire, we came on a more obviously recent burn from 2004 that wasn't nearly as large. We did see some wild bison and got a picture of one huge old guy. I'm not sure where I read it but I think that this herd is the only wild woodland bison herd in North America, but don't quote me on that.
Anyway, we've finally arrived in Watson Lake in a great camp site and now that supper's over and the laundry done, I'm hoping to get a chance to upload this to the Internet tonite with some pictures. If not, then it will be tomorrow morning instead.

6/16/2006 5:46 PM

On The Road Again!

Finally got going again after our disaster. We left our hosts at Farmington sourth of Fort St. John on Friday morning. They had kindly invited us back to their place, which had previously been an RV park, to wait the few days it would take for a new fridge to come in. Not only did we have wonderful surroundings to kick back and chill out from our fires, but our host took us sightseeing to the both the Peace and W.A.C. Bennett dams while our hostess supplied us with some really delicious meals and great walks.
The dams on Williston Lake were really interesting to see. We also saw two videos, one at the Peace Canyon Dam and one at the Bennett Dam describing how the dams were built. Interestingly, the Peace Canyon dam has exhibits about dinosaurs because the oldest fossilized bird tracks in the world were discovered there before the Peace River valley was flooded, as well as some of the oldest vegetation eating dinosaur tracks and bones ever found. I got a picture of a dinosaur track in a form cast before the rock was buried under tons of water forever and I hope it turns out.
The Bennett dam is said to be the largest earthen dam in the world and trust me, it looks it!
After leaving the dam we went over to the yacht club on the opposite side of Williston Lake where our host has a good sized boat and toured around there for a little while. It was a great day and I actually learned lots!
We arrived at the RV shop in Fort St. John Friday morning, relieved to see our new fridge sitting in the shop, already hooked up and being tested before being installed. Although it was a $2500 touch, it sure is a nice fridge and the peace of mind is worth every penny!
When we left our host's place we crossed the old Kiskatinaw River Bridge which is the only original timber bridge still in use today and it actually curves for its 531 foot length. It's quite something to see.
Our trip north of the Peace River Valley was nicely uneventful and the sights were great. We touched wood (a toothpick holder up in the visor) everytime we got cocky about making it north with further incident. We're not superstitious, but....it never hurts to cover all of your bases.
The highway to Fort Nelson was a bit rough in places but the views of the northern Rocky Mountain range was pretty darn nice. As we went we watched the forests change periodically from decideous to coniferous and back again. We came up on a rise that allowed us to clearly see an interesting mountain called Indian Head. It was a flat topped mesa with a rock sticking out at the top that definitely looked like the head you would see on a coin.
Shortly after we pulled into the Tetsa River Regional Park, tired and hungry. We had promised ourselves that we were going to take this trip slow, but after losing so many days parked, we decided to make up some time driving. The camp site was absolutely beautiful with nicely treed sites and the roar of the river in the background. We finally got to have our first real camp with a real fire and although tired, it was so light out that I was able to read outside until 11:30 at night. It was great! We're on our way!

6/13/2006 3:10 PM

Here I Sit, Broken Hearted....

You know how that old saying goes. Well, we're right back south of Fort St. John where the story below was written two days ago. We're not exactly speeding along, are we?
Yesterday morning we were just having our breakfast when we could smell electrical wiring burning and smoke started curling out from under the fridge. Andy dove for the fire extinguisher and put the fire out. He pulled out the wiring and it was black and welded together so he spent about an hour or so rewiring that section using wire and tools that our host kindly lent to us.. It looked good to go so as I sat at the kitchen table and uploaded some pictures from my camera, Andy started letting down jacks on the RV and finished putting weatherstripping around the door. As I walked by the fridge I commented that I could smell a burn smell again. In only seconds it had burst into flames under the fridge. We blew the flame out that time because the first fire extinguisher had been expended and we couldn't get to the second one quickly enough.
This time the wiring was burnt much worse, so we left it out from under the fridge, packed up, and on our host's recommendation, left to see a fellow in Fort St. John that he said was quite knowledgeable. We arrived at his shop and he took a long look at the situation. He found a wire at the back that appeared to be shorting out so he fixed it and rewired the whole thing underneath.
We were feeling pretty confident about the whole thing so at about 2:30 we finally got away from Fort St. John and headed north. Our host and his friend had stopped by the shop while we were getting the wiring fixed and noticed that the hitch ball looked like it had a little play in it so we got up the road only a little ways to a pull-out to tighten it up. We had only been stopped a moment and you could see smoke coming out of the vent above the fridge. We had purchased another fire extinguisher and that was used to put out the fire but this time there was a large burn spot in the bottom of the fridge. The plastic hadn't burnt all the way through but just about.
Back we went to Fort St. John and the fellow that had fixed it just could not believe that it had caught on fire yet again. He and Andy spent until 5:30 working on the thing and trying different things to try and figure out what was going on. They came up with every theory under the sun while I tried to keep the dogs in the back of the truck cool and watered, and I tried to keep from roasting in the high temperatures.
The guys got everything rewired and then I asked that they completely disconnect any power to the harness underneath. We felt we could continue our holiday using propane only. We headed north once more, stopping a couple of times to check that everything was all right. No fire. No problems.
About thirty miles out of Fort St. John we decided to pull into a rest area that had a nice greenbelt so that we could give the dogs a good run and ourselves a break from the heat of the city. We climbed into the RV to check it out and found no sign of smoke or fire. Andy went back out to take the dogs out of the truck while I used the washroom. I came out the door, glanced at the bottom of the fridge, and saw smoke curling out. I yelled at Andy outside and by the time I had bent down to the fridge, flames had started roaring underneath.
We got the fire out and Andy pulled the smoking mess of melted wires out from under the fridge. This time a good sized hole had been melted right into the bottom of the fridge. I'll tell you, if you don't think we weren't feeling pretty beat! The RV had been hit several times with a fire extinguisher and although we had blown it out with a compressor at the RV shop, here it was full of fine white fire retardant yet again! The fridge was pretty much shot with a huge hole melted into it and the wiring harness fried worse and worse each time. And we both agreed that we definitely would not feel comfortable sleeping in the RV until we knew for sure the problem was fixed. After four fires we were just very lucky we hadn't lost the trailer completely. By now, we had already developed a contingency plan for getting the truck and dogs away from the trailer should the whole thing go up in flames.
We turned around and headed south again, both of us checking in the rear view mirrors for smoke, even though everything was turned off that could be. We had decided that when we hit Fort St. John we would try to get hold of the fellow at the shop, even though he would be long past closed. No answer on the phone so we started looking for a motel. We had already made up our minds that we would head home to Nimpo Lake and regroup from there. Just about that time the fellow pulled up next to us on the highway and motioned us into the next turnoff.
If you can believe it, this guy had finished up his business, gone home and had supper, and then decided to take a drive to the north where he thought we might camp for the night just to make sure everything was okay when he passed us on the highway going the wrong way. I'll tell you, if that isn't awesome service, I don't know what is!
The guy insisted we come back to his shop because he just could not believe the wiring had burned again with no power to it. We stayed there until well after 9:00 while he and Andy figured out what the problem was. Unfortunately, we were still going to need a new fridge even though they found and could probably fix the problem because it wasn't going to be keeping much of anything cold with a hole burned into it. The shocker is that a new RV fridge is well over $2000 with taxes and not including installation. The fellow could order it but since he was going to Edmonton today and neither he nor the new fridge would arrive back in Fort St. John until Friday, we were going to be enjoying the Peace River country a lot longer than expected.
Our hosts of two days ago kindly invited us back to their place for our wait and have loaned us freezer space for all the meat we had in the RV freezer. We purchased a cooler to hold the fridge stuff so now we're set. All we need to do now is find a good fishing hole. If we're going to be in one spot for a few days, we might as well make the best of it!

6/11/2006 5:00 PM

Wow, Finally!

Well, we finally got settled in somewhere long enough for me to write. Hello from Dawson Creek everyone!
I know, we haven't gotten very far for being on the road for three days and only around 700 miles. Especially when you consider that we often do 500 miles to the Okanagan in a day and still have time to do some business when we get there. But we were determined to train ourselves to take our time on this trip and we certainly have!
Friday morning was hectic to say the least. As I mentioned in the last blog, we were expecting an old friend of mine for dinner on Thursday night. I hadn't seen him for seven years and we had a great evening with him and his work partner. We shut 'er down just before midnight but that meant we had to go like scared cats Friday morning to try and pull out of Nimpo Lake by 10:00 Friday morning. By the time we finished B.S.'ing with some folks at the 'Gate that had just come back from Alaska, we didn't actually get going until shortly after 11:00.
Along the highway we saw a cow moose and her little calf born just this year. We didn't even try to stop and get a picture because the poor little guy was panicking at the sight of us, and although she had jumped the fence and was on the other side, he was still on the highway side. It looked too much like he might dive right into the fence, and too many young moose get killed or tangled up that way so we kept going in the hopes that he would quickly settle down.
We still had to stop in Williams Lake to get insurance and then get on our way to Quesnel, where we were planning to stop the night at Bill and Anita's, friends that we had snowmobiled with on Trumpeter Mountain and who have been great suppliers of some of the photos you've been seeing the last few months of the West Chilcotin. They provided us with a great meal, parking spot, view and super evening. We had a terrific time with them and got to look at all their 'toys'.
We had been hearing a real rumble from the front of the truck every time we climbed a hill and were pretty concerned about it. They pointed us in the direction of Kal Tire in Quesnel and that was the first place we headed to in the morning. Sure enough, the young fellow that had installed our new tires the week before in Williams Lake had misbalanced them so badly with the wrong weight that they were wearing incorrectly. Fortunately, we got a smart cookie in Quesnel that rebalanced the tires and switched them from side to side. On his advice, we stopped again in Prince George to have them checked. On the long haul the noise has reduced somewhat, so we're hoping that the tires are wearing evenly again and eventually the rumble will stop. If not, guess it's something else.
We ran north of Prince George on Saturday through the Pine Pass. There, a series of mountains, all reasonably even in height, run in a line along a valley with a deep little lake. Along each peak you can see the twists of rock that was once parallel to the ocean floor and is now standing vertical in the sky. At one end of the lake, called Azouzetta, is a really pretty looking campground and had we not been running for only a couple of hours, we might very well have stopped there. The highway all through there is quite a pretty drive but I can attest from experience that the Pine Pass Highway is a dirty little mother in winter and when I lived in Prince George I often remember hearing on the radio that "The Pine pass has been closed until further notice."
From there we continued north to about 20 miles south of Chetwynd in the Peace Foothills, where the country changes drastically again. Now the hills are all flat topped, like mesas and the trees are mostly decideous such as poplar, cottonwood and birch. We went through one valley where the skunk cabbage was growing so thickly and smelled so strongly that you could barely breath. It was hot too so that probably didn't help much.
We took a detour to Tumbler Ridge which is a mining town and very prettily laid out. We visited with friends there and then found ourselves a camp spot on the river for the night. Although off the highway a good hour or so, the highway going in to Tumbler Ridge is in excellent condition and there is another highway going up to Dawson Creek that is also in superb shape, and it means you don't have to go over the same road twice, which is always a bonus.
At Tumbler Ridge there are dinosaur tracks in rock and some beautiful waterfalls according to the brochure. Unfortunately, we didn't read about the falls until too late so all we could go by was the picture. Lesson number one. Make sure you have the Milepost out before you get to Mile Zero on the Alaska Highway because there are lots of neat things to see and they are listed in the book.
Like all good tourists, we stopped in Dawson Creek to see the Mile Zero post on the advice of a friend who said, "You can't travel the length of the Alaska Highway without starting at the first mile!" It's a good thing we were told that because we sure wouldn't have thought about it.
Dawson Creek opens up into some pretty nice farming country with wide valleys and gentle hills. We are now sitting at another friend's place on the old Alaska Highway just north of Dawson Creek in a place called, appropriately, Farmington. He and his wife have a beautiful place that they used to run as an RV park. That means we got a good electrical hookup with our own little post and everything! There's shade from the trees and the dogs are happily laying in the grass relieved to be out of the truck, I'm sure.
The morning we left, poor River dog hid in his doghouse and took a great deal of coaxing to get out while Mocha jumped into the back of the truck and refused to come out because there was no way in Hades we were leaving without her. She'd been worriedly following us around for days because she knew darn well we were packing for a trip and she did not want to be left behind. River, on the other hand had been totally oblivious to what was going on until that morning. Tailgate down, canopy lid up, a trailer on the back? "No way man, I am not going on a car trip!!!" He got in finally, but it took effort and lots of Gravol.
Once the dogs are on the road, they're fine, and River will jump back into the truck without a problem after a stop with no problem. In fact, he's usually in before you ask him. I think he's afraid he's going to be left behind. It's just a problem the first day when he wishes to be left behind.
So far, aside from the cow moose with this year's baby that we saw Friday morning, we've seen a black bear around Prince George right along the highway that wasn't moving for anyone, a deer, another moose and a really big, fat, marmot. Unfortunately, no pictures. It just isn't that easy to stop a 30' foot rig behind a Ford supercab duelly when you're smoking along at highway speeds, just to take a picture. Once we get further north we might slow down long enough to get some good animal pics.
Tomorrow, we're headed north, and with any luck, any stops now will be to see places of interest instead of visiting people. I've enjoyed them all but I'm peopled out now. I want to see some country!!
Last week's stories can be found at June Week One.

The purpose of this web site is to draw attention to a remote area of west central British Columbia. It is a beautiful area that relies heavily on tourism. The search engines don't know much about the West Chilcotin, Anahim Lake, Nimpo Lake or any of the other small communities in the region and I hope to change that! Even as large as this site will eventually be, there just isn't enough room or time in the day to fully describe this incredible country but I am going to try scraping away at the tip of the iceberg, so join me!

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